Premium Painted Black Feather Edge Cladding
This is a is a Kiln Dried European Whitewood cladding, first treated with an anti-fungal base coat, then painted all round with three layers of jet black durable paint.
Our painted black cladding is a feather edge, or wedge shaped profile, with a rebate at the thick end, along with three relief grooves to minimise any seasonal movement of the timber.
The boards are 175mm wide, designed to be overlapped horizontally to leave approximately 153mm of each board's face showing (not suitable for vertical fitting).
Black cladding is experiencing a surge in popularity again as shows such as Grand Designs incorporate it into many modern builds.
Also take a look at our Painted Black Thermowood Tongue and Groove Cladding if you're looking for a profile other than this featheredge.
Our Painted Black Feather Edge Cladding is designed to be installed by a professional with previous experience in successfully fitting it. The information here is provided as an overview only and is not a substitute for professional fitting advice.
Consult a fitter to determine if your scenario would require the fitting of a breathable membrane between your wall and the cladding. This membrane stops rain getting to the wall, but allows moisture to escape, helping to prevent internal condensation and mould that can come with it.
Treated Softwood Battens
Treated softwood battens (available from our cladding accessories pages) are most commonly used to fix to the wall (or on top of the breathable membrane) to then fix your cladding to. Feather Edge Cladding is for horizontal fixing only, so your battens need to be placed vertically, at around every 600mm (60cm).
Fixing the Cladding
** Whether you use nails or screws, it's important that they are stainless steel, or silicone bronze ARS, so that the natural tanins in the timber will not corrode them. Never use iron nails for fixing timber.
There are two common ways to fix feather edge cladding. The first is to nail it, in which case it's best to use only one nail across the width of the board, so it won't split as it expands or contracts with the seasons.
If you use nails, preferably use ring-shanked for extra grip, and again stainless steel so they don't corrode. Consider using nails with larger heads so the cladding doesn't pull through.
Secondly, you can pre-drill holes wider than the body of the screws you are using, and hold the boards with the head of the screw. This will allow movement without splitting the boards.
Either way, start at the bottom and use an extra batten to space the bottom of the bottom board away from the building. Work your way up the building. Make sure you have the thinnest part of the board at the top.
Layout of the cladding
With each new row of cladding you add, it's preferred that you stagger the joins between each board so you don't create a visible seam.
As already stated, these are just ideas to get you thinking about installation and you should consult a professional installer before fitting your cladding as every scenario is different.
Our painted black cladding is pre-treated before the paint is applied and so does not need treating before fitting.
As with anything left exposed to sunlight, the finish will eventually start to fade. This can be prevented with an OSMO 420 UV Protection Oil.
The boards are supplied in lengths of 4.8m. When you cut the cladding, you will expose a fresh, bright end on the wood. We recommend a Sikkens Cetol BL Opaque Black exterior paint to re-blacken and seal the ends: Sikkens Cetol BL Opaque Black.
Other options are: