Tiga Wood Cladding
Tiga Wood cladding is a new product which is quickly becoming one of our favourites. The cladding is lightly seared by hand with a blow torch, vividly highlighting the grain pattern, then steel-brushed to remove any loose charring and finally coated with a Danish oil to protect the surface.
We can supply Tiga Wood cladding in multiple profiles including:
- Tongue and Groove
- Feather Edge
When fitting your Tiga Wood cladding we recommend you start by fitting a breathable membrane to your wall. This will help to protect against moisture build up behind your cladding. Next, fit battens that you will then fit your cladding to. This will leave a gap between your cladding and the building so air can circulate behind it which will help to stop your timber from degrading.
When fitting machined cladding like Tongue and Groove, Shiplap and Rainshield leave a 3mm gap between the boards. If fitting tongue and groove cladding make sure that the groove is facing downwards so that moisture doesn’t gather in it.
For feather edge, start at the bottom and then work your way upwards overlapping the cladding as you go. We work out how many boards you need off a 25mm overlap so if you want more overlap you will need more timber.
See our "Fitting Guidance" section above for more tips.
Take a look at the photos below for some examples of how this cladding looks when fitted.
Our Tiga Wood Cladding is designed to be installed by a professional with previous experience in successfully fitting cladding who understands how timber can expand and contract. The information here is provided as an overview only and is not a substitute for professional fitting advice.
Consult a fitter to determine if your scenario would require the fitting of a breathable membrane between your wall and the cladding. This membrane stops rain getting to the wall, but allows moisture to escape, helping to prevent internal condensation and mould that can come with it. If you choose our Rainshield profile, ie. IWC8, you will most probably need a membrane as a gap is purposely left around the cladding.
Treated Softwood Battens
Treated softwood battens (available from our cladding accessories pages) are most commonly used to fix to the wall (or on top of the breathable membrane) to then fix your cladding to. If you are fixing your cladding horizontally, your battens need to be placed vertically, at around every 600mm (60cm), and vice versa.
The method of fixing depends on the profile you choose. You can fix with nails or screws, but whichever method you choose, make sure you use stainless steel or another type which will not be corroded by the natural acids in the timber. Never use iron fixings with timber.
If using screws, we recommend pre-drilling the timber and holding the cladding on with the head of the screw. If nailing (again, don't use iron), use a nail with quite a large head so the cladding doesn't pull through.
If you opt for a Feather Edge profile, ie. IWC9 or IWC10, start at the bottom of the building and use some extra batten to hold the bottom of the bottom board out from the building. Feather Edge cladding is for horizontal fixing only.
If you choose a tongue and groove profile, make sure the tongue is at the top, otherwise moisture will sit in the groove. We sometimes alter the profiles that are available in Tiga Wood finish. Profiles IWC1 to IWC4 can be fit horizontally or vertically, IWC5 can only be fit vertically so water doesn't sit in the channel.
Rainshield cladding should only be fitted horizontally with a gap of around 3mm.
As already stated, these are just ideas to get you thinking about installation and you should consult a professional installer before fitting your cladding as every scenario is different.
Tiga Wood Cladding Treatment
As standard, your Tiga Wood cladding comes pre-treated with a Danish oil.
If left without annual re-treatment with Danish oil, weathering will very slowly take the wood back to its natural appearance. To maintain the seared finish, re-application of Danish oil is recommended every year.